HOW MUCH WEIGHT CAN CARABINERS HOLD?
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Climbing buckles are rated for strength in three directions: longitudinal (long axis), lateral (short axis), and when opened (long axis open or "door open"). These ratings are usually marked on the spine of the climbing buckle. All mountaineering aluminum carabiners have passed UIAA and CE standards, which means that as long as you use them correctly, they are sturdy enough, as shown in the picture.
Here is how to use intensity levels: If you have narrowed your search to several different climbing buckles that suit your climbing style, consider intensity levels as one of the final decision points. If a mountain buckle provides everything you need and is more sturdy than other mountain buckles, then you might as well choose that one.
Precautions for gate impact: Almost any climbing and falling force will cause gate impact, which will reduce the overall strength of the climbing buckle to reach its opening strength, thereby increasing the possibility of the buckle breaking. It may occur in the following situations:
- The inertia of the door overcomes the spring tension that holds it in place
- The door collides with another object
To protect yourself from the impact of such mountain buckle failures, please choose a mountain buckle with a specific door design (such as a wire door -12kn as shown in the figure) and/or rigid spring tension. You can also choose to have a locked door-self locking swivel carabiner and/or a mountain buckle with high opening strength - as shown in the picture, 24kn.
